Matemwe Beach

Matemwe sits on the north-east coast, and its main advantage is straightforward: Mnemba Atoll, the private island surrounded by Zanzibar's richest reef system, is about three kilometres offshore. You can see it from the beach. Boat trips to the atoll for snorkelling and diving leave from Matemwe's shore and reach the reef in about twenty minutes. If Mnemba is the reason you're coming to Zanzibar, this is the base that makes the most logical sense. You spend less time on the boat and more time in the water.

The reef offshore also keeps the water inside Matemwe's bay calmer and clearer than the open east coast. There's a tide, but the offshore reef breaks most of the wave energy and reduces the seaweed exposure that marks the deeper south-east beaches. Swimming is best around higher tide, but the difference is less dramatic here than at Paje or Jambiani. The direct-offshore snorkelling, without going out to Mnemba, is already better than most beaches on the island.

The village has a genuine fishing character. Boats come in and out, dhows get pulled up on the sand, and the community is quieter and more self-contained than the resort zones to the north. Accommodation ranges from a couple of high-end lodges — the kind where meals are included, guides are on hand and the rooms are serious — to simpler guesthouses at budget prices. At the expensive end you're buying seclusion, personalised service and very good food. Both ends of the range make sense depending on what you're here for.

Matemwe is about an hour from the airport. It's further from Stone Town and the spice farms than Nungwi, which means day trips require more driving. Most guests staying here are there for the reef and don't find that a problem. June to October and December to February are the best months for water visibility and weather.