Michamvi & Pingwe

The Michamvi peninsula curves north from just above Paje, and its shape changes everything. The eastern side faces the open Indian Ocean with the same dramatic tides as Paje and Jambiani. The western tip, known as Michamvi Kae, faces west across the channel. That makes it one of the only east-coast spots in Zanzibar where you can sit on a beach and watch the sun drop over the sea. It's a genuine rarity on this side of the island, and it's worth knowing about before you fix your base for the east coast.

The peninsula's best-known landmark is The Rock Restaurant, perched on a coral outcrop about thirty metres off the shore at Pingwe. At low tide you can walk to it across the sand. At high tide a small boat brings you across. It's a proper restaurant with a full à la carte menu, and the setting is unlike any dining experience you're likely to have elsewhere on the island. It's expensive by Zanzibar standards. Many visitors come for a cocktail on the deck and the photographs rather than a full meal, which is entirely valid and the photos are as good as advertised.

The coves along the Pingwe and Michamvi shoreline are sheltered and calmer than the open east coast because the peninsula's shape blocks some of the swell. Swimming is comfortable in the coves, the water is shallow and warm, and the beaches here are much less crowded than Paje. There's no kite scene, no backpacker hostels and no evening bars in a row. The feel is quieter and more private.

Most budget travellers base at Paje or Jambiani and visit Michamvi for a half-day, which works well. The drive from Paje is twenty minutes. For couples wanting something quieter and more exclusive, a few boutique properties on the peninsula offer the west-facing sunset view without the day-tripper traffic.